Asscher
An Asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners and a high crown, giving it a distinctive layered, "hall of mirrors" appearance.
Also known as: Asscher cut, Royal Asscher cut, Square emerald cut
| Crown | Higher than emerald cut |
|---|---|
| Outline | Square, cropped corners |
| Faceting | Step cut |
| Facet count | 58 (original); 74 (Royal Asscher) |
| Typical use | Engagement rings, Art Deco and vintage-inspired jewellery |
| Light behaviour | Broad flashes, pronounced hall-of-mirrors effect |
| Clarity sensitivity | High, similar to emerald cut |
What defines the cut
The Asscher is a square step cut, patented in 1902 by the Asscher brothers of Amsterdam. It shares emerald cut's parallel, rectangular step faceting, but with a square rather than rectangular outline, more cropped corners (giving it an almost octagonal silhouette), and a notably higher crown, which deepens its characteristic "hall of mirrors" layered-window appearance.
Royal Asscher
In 2001 the Asscher family (through Royal Asscher Diamond Company) introduced the "Royal Asscher" cut — the same general concept with 74 facets instead of 58 and slightly more rounded corners, producing more brilliance than the original 1902 pattern. Certificates and dealer listings usually specify which version a given stone is.
Visual characteristics
Like emerald cut, Asscher shows broad rectangular flashes rather than small scattered sparkle, with the layered step facets creating a distinctive telescoping, "windowed" look when viewed straight on.
Buying considerations
- Clarity sensitivity is high, similar to emerald cut — inclusions are more visible through the large, transparent step facets than they would be in a brilliant cut of equal clarity grade.
- Original (1902-pattern, 58-facet) versus Royal Asscher (74-facet) is worth confirming specifically if the exact style matters — they look distinctly different in person despite the shared name.
- The high crown is part of the intended look, not a flaw — don't expect the flatter profile of an emerald cut.
Jewellery suitability
Strongly associated with Art Deco design, given its 1902 origin and the style's popularity through the 1920s–30s. Suits clean, geometric settings similarly to emerald cut.
Frequently asked questions
- Is Asscher the same as a square emerald cut?
- They are closely related and sometimes used interchangeably in casual conversation, but Asscher specifically refers to the patented 1902 (or 2001 Royal Asscher) faceting pattern with its higher crown and more cropped corners — not simply emerald cut made square.
- Why does an Asscher look almost octagonal?
- The corners are cropped more aggressively than an emerald cut's, which combined with the square base gives an outline close to an octagon.
Related cuts
The emerald cut is a rectangular (or square) step cut, with the corners trimmed off and long, parallel facets running in "steps" rather than the triangular/kite facets of a brilliant.
A radiant is a rectangular or square shape with cropped corners that combines a step-cut outline with full brilliant faceting, designed to keep more brilliance than a straight emerald cut.
An Old European Cut is an antique round brilliant with a small table, high crown, large visible culet and circular (rather than cushion-like) outline — the direct ancestor of the modern round brilliant.
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