Portrait Cut
A portrait cut diamond is an extremely thin, flat, minimally faceted slice — historically cut to be laid directly over a miniature painted portrait so the artwork stayed visible while the diamond protected and enhanced it.
Also known as: Lasque
| Outline | Historically varied — rectangular, oval and later pear/fancy outlines are all documented |
|---|---|
| Faceting | Minimal to none — often a flat, polished, mirror-like slice |
| Thickness | Extremely thin |
| Typical use | Historic jewellery, collector and restoration pieces |
| Availability | Very rare — largely historic, not a standard modern cutting style |
| Historic use | Set directly over miniature painted portraits |
What defines the cut
A portrait cut, also called a lasque, is not faceted for brilliance the way almost every other cut in this library is. It is cut extremely thin and flat, with a mirror-like polished finish and minimal or no faceting, so that it functions as a transparent protective covering rather than a light-performance cut. Historically it was placed directly over a miniature painted portrait — the diamond stayed clear enough that the painting underneath remained visible, while the stone protected and enhanced the artwork.
History
The portrait cut originated in Mughal India, with documented use by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, who had thin transparent diamonds placed over hand-painted miniature portraits to protect and display them as wearable art. The style spread to European royal and aristocratic jewellery through the 17th and 18th centuries. The largest known example is "The Russian Portrait" (or "The Portrait Diamond"), a pear-shaped portrait-cut stone of roughly 40 x 29mm and about 27 carats, set over an ivory miniature of Emperor Alexander I of Russia (reigned 1801-1825).
Buying considerations
- A portrait cut is a historic curiosity and collector piece rather than a standard modern-cutting-style purchase — treat sourcing and valuation accordingly.
- Because outlines were never standardised (rectangular, oval, and later pear and other fancy shapes are all documented historically), don't expect a fixed silhouette the way a modern named shape implies.
- Condition matters more than for a faceted stone: as a thin flat slice, a portrait cut is more vulnerable to chipping at the edges than a stone with a conventional girdle and faceted crown/pavilion.
Jewellery suitability
Almost exclusively historic and collector jewellery, or deliberate restorations/recreations in that tradition — its purpose (protecting and displaying a miniature painting beneath it) has no real modern equivalent use case.
Terminology
Also known as a "lasque" — the two names refer to the same style; "portrait cut" describes its historic function, "lasque" is the older term for a thin, flat-cut diamond slice generally.
Frequently asked questions
- Why is it called a portrait cut?
- Because it was historically cut thin and clear enough to be laid directly over a miniature painted portrait, protecting the artwork while keeping it visible through the diamond.
- Is a portrait cut the same as a lasque?
- Yes — "lasque" is the older, broader term for a thin, flat-cut diamond slice; "portrait cut" refers to the specific historic use of that style over miniature portraits.
- Can you still buy a portrait-cut diamond today?
- They exist almost exclusively as historic pieces, collector items, or deliberate recreations in the historic style — it is not a standard modern cutting style with regular commercial supply.
Related cuts
A rose cut is a flat-bottomed diamond with a domed, faceted crown and no pavilion at all — one of the oldest diamond cutting styles still in use.
A briolette is a fully faceted, usually pendant-drilled teardrop or elongated-oval shape with no flat table, no girdle and no pavilion in the modern sense — the entire surface is covered in continuous, wrapping triangular facets.
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