Princess
A princess is a square, brilliant-faceted shape with sharp, uncropped corners, combining the sparkle of a round brilliant with a geometric square outline.
Also known as: Square modified brilliant, Princess cut
| Outline | Square, sharp corners |
|---|---|
| Faceting | Modern brilliant |
| Typical use | Engagement rings |
| Availability | Widely available |
| Common issue | Vulnerable corners need protective prongs |
| Typical L:W ratio | Close to 1.00 |
What defines the cut
Princess is a square brilliant cut with sharp, uncropped corners — visually the most geometric of the common brilliant shapes, since unlike radiant or cushion it keeps true right-angle corners rather than rounding or trimming them. Facet count varies by cutter, typically in the 57–76 range including the pavilion.
Visual characteristics
Princess cuts retain strong brilliance and sparkle, comparable to round brilliant, while offering a clean square outline. Depth needs particular attention on this shape — princess cuts vary more in depth percentage than round brilliants, and an overly deep or shallow stone can look smaller face-up or lose brilliance in the corners.
Buying considerations
- The uncropped corners are the shape's main practical weak point — they're more prone to chipping than a rounded or trimmed-corner shape, which is why princess cuts are almost always set with prongs specifically positioned to protect each corner.
- Depth percentage is worth checking more carefully here than for round brilliant — princess cuts cut too deep can appear smaller than their carat weight suggests.
- Nearly-square (1.00–1.03) ratios are typically preferred; noticeably rectangular versions exist but are less commonly sought as "princess" specifically.
Jewellery suitability
Princess cuts are popular as both centre stones (often set with four corner-protecting prongs) and as side/accent stones, where their sharp geometry pairs cleanly with baguettes or other princess-cut melee.
Frequently asked questions
- Why do princess cut rings always seem to have four prongs at the corners?
- The corners are the most vulnerable point on the stone, so setting specifically protects them — a princess cut is rarely set with fewer than four prongs for this reason.
- Is princess cut cheaper than round for the same carat and quality?
- Generally yes — cutting a princess from rough retains more of the original weight than a round brilliant does, which typically makes it more efficient, and therefore often somewhat less expensive, per carat.
Compared with
Related cuts
A radiant is a rectangular or square shape with cropped corners that combines a step-cut outline with full brilliant faceting, designed to keep more brilliance than a straight emerald cut.
An Asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners and a high crown, giving it a distinctive layered, "hall of mirrors" appearance.
A cushion is a square or rectangular shape with rounded corners and sides, giving it a soft, pillow-like outline; the modern cushion brilliant applies contemporary brilliant faceting to that outline.
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