Modern Brilliant Cuts
Modern brilliant cuts use triangular and kite-shaped facets arranged specifically to maximise light return, rather than to preserve rough weight or follow a historic faceting convention. The round brilliant is the reference point the family is named after; the same faceting logic is applied to round, cushion, oval, pear, heart, marquise and princess outlines.
What distinguishes this family
What distinguishes a brilliant from a step cut is the facet shape and arrangement, not the outline: brilliant faceting uses triangular/kite facets radiating from the centre, while step cuts (see the Step Cuts hub) use rectangular facets in parallel rows. A shape like cushion or princess can, in principle, be cut in either style, though brilliant faceting is by far the more common choice for both today.
Cuts in this family
The round brilliant is the standard modern diamond cut: a circular outline faceted specifically to maximise the return of light back to the eye.
An oval is an elongated brilliant-cut shape — effectively a stretched round brilliant, with the same 57/58-facet arrangement adapted to an elliptical outline.
A cushion is a square or rectangular shape with rounded corners and sides, giving it a soft, pillow-like outline; the modern cushion brilliant applies contemporary brilliant faceting to that outline.
A pear is a brilliant-faceted shape combining a rounded end with a single point, resembling a teardrop.
A marquise is a long, narrow, brilliant-faceted shape with two symmetrical points, resembling a boat hull or an eye shape.
A princess is a square, brilliant-faceted shape with sharp, uncropped corners, combining the sparkle of a round brilliant with a geometric square outline.
A heart shape is a brilliant-faceted stone in the outline of a heart — effectively a pear with a cleft cut into the rounded end.
A moval is a brilliant-faceted diamond or gemstone cut that blends the elongated body of an oval with the tapered, pointed ends of a marquise — the name is a portmanteau of the two.
Buying considerations
- Cut quality (proportions, symmetry, polish) affects brilliance and fire more here than for any other family — prioritise it over marginal colour/clarity upgrades, especially on round brilliants where GIA/AGS grade cut directly.
- Fancy brilliant shapes (oval, pear, cushion, heart, marquise) are not cut-graded on the same fixed scale as round — judge proportions and light performance from photos/video rather than relying on a single grade.
- Elongated shapes (oval, marquise, pear) can show a "bow tie" — a dark shadow across the centre — worth checking in video before buying.
Jewellery uses
Round brilliants suit essentially any setting style. Fancy brilliant shapes suit both solitaire and halo settings; elongated shapes are often set east-west for a different look.
Browse modern brilliant cuts on Chaos
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